Cornwall

Saint Ives, Cornwall, Eng.

Cornwall, unitary authority and historic county, southwestern England, occupying a peninsula jutting into the Atlantic Ocean. Truro is the unitary authority’s administrative centre. The unitary authority covers nearly the same area as the historic county. However, the unitary authority includes an area extending west from Werrington along the River Otter that lies within the historic county of Devon, and it does not include the Isles of Scilly, in the Atlantic Ocean, which are part of the historic county of Cornwall but administratively are a unitary authority unto themselves.

Land's End

Tintagel

Constantine: Saint Constantine Church

Cornwall is the most remote of English counties. Its eastern boundary, on the River Tamar, is some 200 miles (320 km) distant from London. Cornwall’s westernmost town, Penzance, lies another 80 miles (130 km) farther from London and close by Land’s End, the traditional southwestern extreme of Great Britain. The Isles of Scilly lie an additional 35 miles (56 km) southwest of Penzance in the Atlantic Ocean. From 1974 until 2009 Cornwall was an administrative county that comprised six districts, which, except for the largest, North Cornwall, revived traditional Cornish names—Caradon, Carrick, Kerrier, Penwith, and the borough of Restormel—that were unfamiliar to some English ears, though not to Cornishmen, for whom crossing the Tamar was to enter England. An administrative reorganization in April 2009 eliminated the districts and transformed the administrative county into a unitary authority.

The main upland areas inland are a series of granitic intrusions that form distinctive moorlands (open heathlands). A geologically recent rise of sea level resulted in the drowned river valleys, or rias, of southern Cornwall, including the Tamar, Fowey, and Fal estuaries. The effect of the rias, combined with the variety of rocks, is an attractive coastal landscape that is subject to increasing pressures by the demands of recreation and tourism. Long stretches of the coast are now owned by the National Trust or are otherwise protected from commercial development.

The climate of Cornwall is closely affected by the proximity of the sea. High winds and sea mists are common; rainfall is frequent and heavy, especially on high ground. Temperatures are warm in summer and relatively mild in winter. As a result, the vegetation is luxuriant, especially in sheltered coastal areas.

Metal ores, especially tin, attracted prehistoric settlers to the metalliferous zones around the granitic intrusions of Cornwall, and there is a wealth of stone relics such as megalithic dolmens, monoliths, and circles. Subsequent Roman and Saxon settlement in England caused an associated migration of Celtic Christians to Cornwall, where they resisted the Saxon advance for 500 years, acknowledging Saxon overlordship only in the 10th century. The county’s isolation aided the survival of the Celtic language known as Cornish, although it has not been spoken as a living language since the 18th century. Celtic place-names are much in evidence. After the Norman Conquest (1066) the indigenous manors of Cornwall were taken over to form the basis of an earldom; since 1337 they have belonged traditionally to the eldest son of the English sovereign, who acts as duke of Cornwall.

Newquay

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Rural resources provide the bases of the economy. The valleys afford excellent pasture for dairy cattle, and the moorland has large areas for rough grazing. Market gardening is important in sheltered coastal districts, the mild winter encouraging cultivation of delicate and early crops. Tourism, capitalizing on the attractive physical environment, now provides the major source of income, especially along the coast, where many small fishing ports—such as St. Ives, Newquay, and Polperro—are busy resorts. Cornwall is a favourite county for second homes and retirement, which, together, are causing basic changes in the social structure of rural areas. Many coastal towns—notably Falmouth, Penzance, and Fowey—are active ports.

Tin was mined in Cornwall for at least 3,000 years. The industry became so important that in the Middle Ages the Cornish tin miners were granted special privileges and were placed by the crown under the separate legal jurisdiction of the stannary (tin mine) courts. Despite periodic depressions in the industry, Cornish tin mining continued profitably until the 20th century, when the shallow tin deposits were exhausted and the deeper and more costly workings fell victim to cheaper foreign tin production. The number of working mines dwindled, and, with the world collapse of tin prices in the 1980s, the last few tin mines in Cornwall were allowed by the British government to close. In 2006 the copper and tin mines in Cornwall and West Devon, a nearby borough in Devon county, were designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. Kaolin, the product of eroded granite, is still mined around St. Austell. Area 1,369 square miles (3,546 square km). Pop. (2001) 499,114; (2011) 532,273; (2018 est.) 565,968.