Galliano, John

John Galliano, in full John Charles Galliano, (born November 28, 1960, Gibraltar), British fashion designer known for his ready-to-wear and haute-couture collections for such fashion houses as Christian Dior, Givenchy, and Maison Margiela.

Galliano, the son of a Spanish plumber, at age six moved with his family from Gibraltar to south London, where he was educated. At age 16 he left Wilson’s Grammar School for Boys, where he had been an undistinguished student, to study textile design at East London College. In 1980 he entered St. Martin’s School of Art, London, where he became enamoured of historical costuming. His 1984 graduate collection, Les Incroyables, inspired by the French Revolution, was purchased straight off the college’s catwalk by the owner of an exclusive London fashion boutique. After graduating with first-class honours, Galliano set up a studio in a warehouse in London’s East End and established himself as the “boy wonder” of British fashion. He was British Fashion Council Designer of the Year in 1987 and 1994, and in 1991 he made his Paris catwalk debut.

Twice bankrupted, Galliano’s business was rescued in 1994 by John A. Bult, a Swiss-born New York-based investment banker, and Galliano was set up in an atelier near Place de la Bastille in Paris. In 1995 Galliano was appointed to replace Hubert de Givenchy, the refined founder of the house. Galliano revealed his first couture collection featuring sumptuous bouffant ball gowns, bowed dresses, and belted suits, and in 1995, for the third time and second consecutive year, he was named British Designer of the Year.

Upon Galliano’s appointment as designer in chief at Dior fashion house in 1996, the luxury-goods conglomerate Louis Vuitton Möet Hennessy (LVMH) bought Galliano’s company from Bult. Bernard Arnault, head of LMVH, which owned both Givenchy and Dior, hoped that the then 36-year-old Galliano would attract a younger clientele, not only to couture but also to the seasonal ready-to-wear lines produced by both houses. Indeed, the arrival of Galliano heralded a fresh start for the beleaguered reputation of haute couture and, as designer in chief of two fashion houses, Galliano enjoyed an unrivaled position among British designers. He confessed, however, that Dior’s New Look—an ensemble that paired jackets with padded shoulders and ample ankle-length skirts—was closer to his own aesthetic than were the conservative linear designs of Givenchy.

In 1996 English fashion designer Alexander McQueen succeeded Galliano at Givenchy, and the following year they jointly received the British Designer of the Year award. In 2009 Galliano was awarded the French Legion of Honor, the country’s highest honour.

In February 2011 Galliano was accused of anti-Semitism after he allegedly made racist insults in a Paris café. In March Dior fired the designer, and the following month Galliano was also fired from his namesake fashion house. During this time Galliano entered rehab for drug and alcohol addiction, and he later apologized for his comments. In September 2011 he was found guilty of making “public insults based on origin, religious affiliation, race, or ethnicity” and received a suspended fine. For the next two years, Galliano was largely shunned by the fashion world, though he notably designed model Kate Moss’s wedding gown in 2011. In 2013, however, he collaborated on Oscar de la Renta’s fall collection, and the following year he was named creative director of Maison Martin Margiela (the Belgian fashion house dropped Martin from its name in 2015).