Kawakubo, Rei

Rei Kawakubo, (born October 11, 1942, Tokyo, Japan), self-taught Japanese fashion designer known for her avant-garde clothing designs and her high-fashion label, Comme des Garçons (CDG), founded in 1969. Kawakubo’s iconoclastic vision made her one of the most influential designers of the late 20th century.

Kawakubo studied fine arts and aesthetics at Keio University in Tokyo, graduating in 1964. She had a strong female role model in her mother, who left Kawakubo’s father when he would not let her work outside the home. Likewise independent, Kawakubo left home after college and took a position in the advertising department of Asahi Kasei, an acrylic-fibre textile manufacturer. She was given creative freedom by her superior there and became involved in collecting props and costumes for photo shoots. That activity ultimately led her to design her own fashions when she could not find an appropriate costume for a shoot. In 1967 she became a freelance stylist.

By 1969 Kawakubo was selling her designs under the CDG label to shops in Tokyo. In 1973 she opened her first store, and within a decade she had 150 shops across Japan and was earning $30 million annually. Kawakubo was committed to offering women, comme des garçons (“like boys”), clothes designed for mobility and comfort. For this reason, she never designed stilettos or had her models wear them on the runway. Her clothes were designed for the independent woman who did not dress to seduce or gain a man’s approval. Kawakubo recoiled from Western definitions of sexiness, which focused on revealing and exposing the body. She found revealing clothing decidedly unsexy and boring.

During the late 1970s Kawakubo started a professional and romantic relationship with fellow Japanese designer Yohji Yamamoto. They both produced clothes that redefined fashion and challenged conceptions of feminine beauty. The two debuted separate collections in Paris in 1981 and shocked the critics. The garments were dark (primarily black), oversized, and asymmetrical, and they twisted and bulged and otherwise did not conform to the lines of the human body. Kawakubo and Yamamoto continued to collaborate for several years and, together with Issey Miyake, were considered Japan’s most innovative fashion designers.

By the time Kawakubo had her international breakthrough in 1981, she had already expanded CDG with three more clothing lines: Homme (1978; menswear) and two additional womenswear lines, Tricot and Robe de Chambre (1981). She also opened her first Paris boutique that year following her outrageously successful debut on the Paris runway. In 1983 she opened her first shop in the U.S., on the third floor of Henri Bendel, a luxury department store in New York City.

Rather than respond to trends, Kawakubo rooted her designs in concepts, straddling art and fashion. Thus, her designs, especially early in her career, used tremendous amounts of fabric and often looked voluminous on the wearer’s body. Because they did not fit the industry’s perception of what women wanted, her garments were sometimes described as antifashion. Her influential 1982 collection, Destroy, featured oversized, loosely knit sweaters with holes of varying size that looked as though they had been slashed open. The dark, disheveled style was dubbed by the media the “postatomic look” or “Hiroshima chic” and, sometimes, the “bag lady” look.

In 1988 she launched her own magazine, Six, a biannual large-format publication that displayed her seasonal collections. Intended as a reference to the sixth sense, Six was as much a contemporary art and ideas journal as a fashion magazine. Most issues contained no words, only illustrations, art, and photography, including that of noted fashion photographers Bruce Weber and Peter Lindbergh. CDG published eight issues of Six; the final one was printed in 1991. That publication was a prime example of how Kawakubo’s aesthetic vision directed the company’s overall image, its graphic design, its advertisements, the atmosphere of her fashion shows, and the minimalist and monochromatic interior design of her stores—a radical approach to retail in the 1980s.

Kawakubo’s clothing designs were sometimes so abstract and unconventional that they were virtually unwearable. The collection often cited in that context was Dress Meets Body, Body Meets Dress (spring/summer 1997), which featured garments with lumps of padding positioned in unflattering places. It became known colloquially as the “lumps and bumps,” “tumor,” or “Quasimodo” collection and was criticized for blatantly disfiguring the female form. That collection inspired Kawakubo’s costume design for choreographer Merce Cunningham’s dance piece Scenario (1997).

With the guidance of CDG’s CEO, Adrian Joffe (also Kawakubo’s husband and translator), Kawakubo skillfully penetrated the fashion market in numerous ways. In 1994 she released the first in what became a vast line of CDG fragrances. One of the more unconventional fragrances was Odeur 53, labeled an “abstract anti-perfume” that consisted of unrecognizable inorganic smells. In 2004 CDG “guerrilla” stores, or “pop-ups,” brought CDG to cities around the globe on an ephemeral basis, lasting no longer than a year in any given location. Kawakubo, Joffe, and CDG are credited with having originated the pop-up store trend. They stopped producing pop-up stores in 2008, when the idea was absorbed into mainstream culture. In addition to her extremely expensive Comme des Garçons clothing, Kawakubo also created more-accessible commercial lines, including Play (2002), a streetwear collection geared toward younger consumers; a special line for the store H&M (2008); and Black (2009), a lower-priced collection of past-season best sellers.

Kawakubo and Joffe also created the high-fashion mecca called Dover Street Market (DSM), originally on Dover Street in London. They based DSM on the concept of London’s now-defunct Kensington Market, a three-story bazaar that catered to subculture fashions from the 1960s until it closed in 2000. Kawakubo curated DSM by inviting a selection of international designers—both established and up-and-coming—to display and sell their collections in whatever manner they chose. The result was what she called “beautiful chaos.” The stores also presented art installations. Kawakubo opened additional DSM stores in the Ginza district of Tokyo (2012) and in New York City (2013). Like Kensington Market, which had been located among the luxury retail stores on High Street, the Dover Street Markets were situated in unlikely places.

Kawakubo won the Fashion Group International award (1986) and the Excellence in Design Award from the Harvard University Graduate School of Design (2000). In 1993 she was honoured by the French government as a Chevalier in the Order of Arts and Letters. Her fashions were featured in several exhibitions, including “Mode et Photo, Comme des Garçons” at the Pompidou Centre in Paris (1986), “Three Women: Madeleine Vionnet, Claire McCardell, and Rei Kawakubo” at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York City (1987), “ReFusing Fashion: Rei Kawakubo” at the Museum of Contemporary Art Detroit (2008), and “Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between” (2017) at the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City. Kawakubo also designed the costumes for the Vienna State Opera’s 2019 production of Orlando, an opera based on Virginia Woolf’s novel.