Prada, Miuccia

Miuccia Prada, original name Maria Bianchi, (born May 10, 1949, Milan, Italy), Italian fashion designer best known as the head designer at the Prada fashion house. She is renowned for using minimalist designs to achieve a traditional style with modern influence.

The second of three children, Maria Bianchi was born into an affluent family. Her father, Luigi (“Gino”) Bianchi, headed a company that manufactured putting-green mowers. Her mother, Luisa, was an heiress to the luxury-goods company then known as Fratelli Prada (“Prada Brothers”), of which Luisa became head in 1958. Initially an aspiring politician, Maria earned a Ph.D. in political science (1973) from the University of Milan, where her ideologies drifted increasingly toward feminism and left-wing politics. She became a member of the Italian Communist Party, regularly distributing flyers at demonstrations, and studied for about five years to become a mime at the Teatro Piccolo (“Little Theatre”) in Milan.

Bianchi joined the Prada family business in 1970 and managed one of its two remaining stores. In 1978 she succeeded her mother as head of the company—which had by then shrunk to only a single store—and hired as her primary supplier the Italian businessman Patrizio Bertelli, a leather-goods manufacturer whom she had met the previous year at a trade fair where he was selling Fratelli Prada knockoffs. As head designer, she—in collaboration with Bertelli—began working to revive the company. One of her earliest ideas included fashioning a line of unlabeled handbags out of a then unorthodox fabric called Pocono nylon—the durable water-resistant fabric often used to make military tents. However, the line, launched in 1979, was not immediately successful.

In the 1980s Bianchi began to globally expand the company, opening additional stores beginning in 1983 and launching a shoe line in 1984. She also relaunched in 1985 her line of Pocono handbags, redesigned with a gold chain strap and the triangular signature logo that would later become the brand’s trademark. Perhaps because of their resemblance to the more expensive leather Chanel handbags, sales of the Pocono handbags soared and were soon carried by the fashion elite, including actress and fashion model Jerry Hall.

To officially hold the surname of Prada, Bianchi had her mother’s unmarried sister adopt her in the late 1980s and thereafter legally changed her name. In 1987 she wed Bertelli. The following year she debuted to critical acclaim her first ready-to-wear collection, which featured parkas fashioned out of nylon, affording customers durability without sacrificing style. Prada’s progressive ideals were often reflected in her designs, which imparted an understated glamour and a refined elegance that stood in strong opposition to the overt sex appeal of many of the brand’s competitors, prompting a reevaluation of femininity and challenging the industry maxim that only “sex sells.” Clean, simple lines and muted, basic colours were paired with luxurious fabrics and exquisite tailoring to achieve a tasteful look that flattered the figure while preserving modesty. At the close of a decade of excess, Prada’s idea of casual luxury caught on, and the brand quickly became associated with confident, intellectual, and affluent working women.

In the early 1990s Prada continued to expand the brand, launching a perfume line and several spin-off clothing lines including the more affordable Miu Miu (1992), her nickname. In 1993 she founded with Bertelli the PradaMilanoarte, later renamed the Prada Foundation (Fondazione Prada), a nonprofit organization dedicated to the support of various up-and-coming contemporary designers, including architects and artists. In the same year, Prada launched a menswear line, and in 1995 she gained international recognition after top Hollywood actress Uma Thurman wore one of her gowns to the Academy Awards ceremony, quickly transforming the brand into an international status symbol.

In 1996 Prada and Bertelli formally merged their respective operations to form Prapar BV (later renamed Prada SpA), a holding company for the Prada Group of businesses, with Bertelli serving as its chief executive officer (beginning in 2014, the two shared the role). In 1997 Prada released a line of activewear, Prada Sport, later renamed Linea Rossa (“Red Line”). Two years later Prada and Bertelli initiated a string of high-profile acquisitions—including the Helmut Lang and Jil Sander fashion houses as well as a stake in fashion companies including Fendi—transforming the Prada Group into a multimillion-dollar fashion conglomerate. She launched a cosmetics line in 2000 and received the Council of Fashion Designers of America International Award in 2004.

By the early 21st century the Prada Group’s annual revenues had skyrocketed to more than $1 billion. However, the group also faced a nearly equivalent amount of debt, leading Prada and Bertelli to begin liquidating their acquisitions. In 2011 the couple oversaw Prada SpA’s initial public offering in Hong Kong, which raised approximately $2.1 billion. For her contribution to the Italian field of fashion, Prada received the title Knight of the Grand Cross (2015), the highest honorary title of the Order of Merit of the Italian Republic.