Chikan Work

chikan work, Hindi Chikankārī, delicate, fine Indian embroidery done in white cotton threads on plain muslin. The ancient history of this style is uncertain, but it is known that in the 18th century it was introduced from the state of Bengal (now Bangladesh) into Lucknow, Uttar Pradesh, still the chief centre of production in the 20th century.

Under the patronage of the nawabs of Oudh (now Ayodhyā), chikan work attained a rare perfection. It relies for effect on simplicity of design, the motifs being limited in number and the excellence of the work being judged by the minuteness and evenness of the embroidery. The number of stitches is also limited; the most common are the darn stitch, the inverted satin stitch, the elongated satin stitch, network, and appliqué work. The art was in danger of dying out, but a revived demand in the second half of the 20th century contributed to its renewed vitality.